Silab, the French cosmetic ingredient manufacturer, has introduced Metallomia, a detoxifying active ingredient developed specifically for menopausal skin. The launch focuses on a biological process called ferritinophagy, which controls the release of iron so that cells can use it. According to Silab, a new modeling study of menopausal skin showed a deficiency in this process.
Iron regulation and metallo-aging
Silab links the ferritinophagy deficiency observed during menopause to a lack of bioavailable iron, which it says can lead to premature skin aging. The company calls this phenomenon metallo-aging. UV radiation can intensify the problem, according to the manufacturer, because it encourages the degradation of iron/ferritin complexes. That can release iron in a massive, uncontrolled way and cause significant oxidative stress.
Metallomia is designed to counter these effects by relaunching ferritinophagy in menopausal skin. Silab says the ingredient facilitates the provision of iron and relaunches the main epidermal functions. It also aims to limit oxidative stress under UV exposure by reducing iron/ferritin complexes. The manufacturer presents the approach as a way to address both iron availability and the oxidative risk linked to excess free iron. Through this targeted mechanism, the company says metallo-aging is significantly reduced.
Reported skin benefits
Silab reports that, from 14 days, the skin of Caucasian volunteers was revitalized: the skin barrier was reinforced and the complexion was more unified and radiant. In Asian volunteers, pigment spots were significantly reduced after 28 days. When Caucasian volunteers applied the ingredient before UV exposure, Silab says it prevented lipid peroxidation, and the appearance of redness was limited within hours after exposure. These outcomes are presented as company findings; the announcement does not provide full trial protocols or sample sizes.
Marshmallow-root sourcing and formulation
For Metallomia, Silab examined the molecular composition of marshmallow roots, which are particularly rich in mucilages. The company set up a traced supply chain with French partners. The supply has been validated against criteria in the European Pharmacopoeia and through authentication by DNA barcoding. To extract polyuronides from the mucilage-rich roots, Silab developed a specific enzyme engineering process.
Metallomia is a patented active ingredient recommended for all care products intended for menopausal skin at a dose of 0.5-2%. It is available in aqueous solution and is described as easy to formulate. Silab says it complies with biodiversity regulations and has a natural origin content of 100% under ISO 16128. The ingredient also complies with international cosmetics regulations in markets including Europe, the United States, China and Japan. Silab lists those jurisdictions among the markets covered by that compliance.